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In 1870, Nawab Sikandar Begum of Bhopal became the first South-Asian Muslim woman to publish an account of her pilgrimage to Makkah. She travelled with a retinue of a thousand, visited Jeddah and Makkah, performed the requisite rituals and observances, then returned to India and wrote her witty and acerbic impressions of her visit. This is the English translation by the wife of a British colonial officer of her unpublished Urdu manuscript. Introduction, Afterword, and detailed footnotes by Siobhan Lamber-Hurley.